Following Alfred Russel Wallace's footsteps to Borneo, where he penned his seminal evolution paper
- Written by Giacomo Bernardi, Professor of Ecology & Evolutionary Biology, University of California, Santa Cruz

The chirping of cicadas is deafening, my clothes are sticky and heavy with heat and sweat, my right hand is swollen from ant bites, I am panting, almost passing out from exhaustion – and I have a big grin on my face. At last I’ve reached my goal, Rajah...